Once upon a time, India dressed the world. Its textiles were the definition of luxury—soft silks, vibrant prints, intricate embroidery, and hand-dyed fabrics that captivated kings, queens, and merchants alike. By the 17th century, Indian fabrics accounted for over 25% of global trade. British tailors even cut up Indian saris to keep up with the rising demand.
From zardozi embroidery to bandhani prints, and from chicken curries to handloom khadi, India exported more than goods—it exported culture. But then came colonization.
The British didn’t just rule India—they broke it. They plundered India’s crafts, disrupted indigenous industries, and replaced handmade traditions with mass-produced factory goods. But even in the face of destruction, India never gave up.
Since independence, India has worked tirelessly to revive its textile and artisan industries. It’s been a slow, often thankless journey—made harder by the fact that many global brands draw inspiration from Indian culture without giving credit.
One such recent controversy? Prada’s Kolhapuri sandal scandal.
The Scandal: Prada’s “Heritage-Inspired” Sandals
At Milan Fashion Week, Italian luxury house Prada showcased a pair of open touring leather sandals. Worn by models on the runway, Prada described the sandals as “heritage-inspired.” They did not mention the price publicly, but reports suggest they cost around $1,200 (approx ₹1 lakh).
What’s the problem?
These were not just “inspired.” They were almost identical to India’s Kolhapuri chappals—handcrafted leather sandals that have been made in Kolhapur, Maharashtra for centuries. And those originals? They retail for just ₹1,000–₹4,000 in India.
Social media reacted swiftly. Hashtags like #Kolhapuri began trending. People accused Prada of cultural appropriation—profiting from India’s heritage without acknowledgment or benefit to the original artisans.
And just like that, the sandal became a scandal.
Prada Responds: A PR Move or Real Change?
Within a week of online backlash, Prada blinked. The brand issued a statement recognizing the “influence of traditional Indian craftsmanship.” Many saw it as a PR bandage—too little, too late.
But Prada didn’t stop there.
In July 2025, Prada sent a four-member technical team to Kolhapur. They visited local workshops, sat cross-legged with artisans, observed shoemaking techniques, and spoke with local craftspeople.
The visit was more than symbolic. It was a recognition that Kolhapuris are not just leather footwear—they are a living piece of history.
The Legacy of Kolhapuri Chappals
Kolhapuri chappals date back to the 12th century. They were originally crafted by Dalit cobblers and gained royal patronage in the early 1900s. Made from buffalo or goat leather, these sandals are known for their durability, earthy look, and handcrafted finesse.
Each pair can take up to a week to make.
In 2019, the Government of India awarded Kolhapuri chappals a GI tag (Geographical Indication), giving them legal protection and linking the product to its place of origin.
Still, today only about 5,000 artisans remain in Kolhapur.
They earn as little as ₹400 a day.
They face rising leather costs, competition from synthetic knock-offs, and lack of global recognition.
India’s Luxury Market: The Bigger Picture
So, why is Prada really interested?
It’s not just cultural appreciation—it’s market opportunity.
India is currently one of the fastest-growing luxury markets in the world. Today, it’s worth $10 billion, and by 2030, it’s projected to reach a staggering $85 billion.
Luxury brands are already making moves:
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Bulgari launched an Indian-style mangalsutra.
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Louis Vuitton released shoes in Rani Pink.
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Swiss watch sales in India grew by 20% in 2024.
India is also seeing a rise in millionaires. By 2027, the number of Indian millionaires is expected to grow by 69%.
This demographic has high spending power and a growing appetite for luxury—especially when it aligns with their cultural identity.
So, yes—Prada is here for business. But that doesn’t mean the collaboration has to be exploitative.
Will There Be a Real Collaboration?
Prada’s visit to Kolhapur was just the beginning.
A second, high-level Prada delegation—including the brand’s global business head and communications chief—is expected in August 2025.
They’re discussing:
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Co-branding opportunities
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Profit sharing
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Legal protection for Indian artisans
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Highlighting Kolhapuri craftsmanship on a global stage
If done right, this could set a global precedent—where traditional artisans are not just sources of inspiration but equal partners in profit and credit.
Why This Matters
Too often, global brands take from cultures without giving back. They repackage heritage as “exotic,” sell it for thousands of dollars, and leave the original creators in poverty.
But Kolhapuri chappals are not a trend. They are a tradition. And traditions deserve respect, protection, and recognition.
If Prada follows through on genuine collaboration, it could change how the fashion industry works with indigenous communities. It could inspire other brands to give credit, pay fairly, and promote transparency.
Final Thoughts: Credit Where It’s Due
Inspiration is easy.
But what’s harder—and far more meaningful—is acknowledging the roots. It's sharing the stage with those who keep ancient traditions alive. The story of Kolhapuri chappals is a story of resilience, heritage, and now—possibly—a global revival.
As luxury brands race into India’s booming market, it’s time they walk the talk—preferably in genuine Kolhapuris, handcrafted with love.